| Balanced/Unbalanced/Overbalanced Diving Regulators | | | | Insulating System) for example is particularly good. If |
| These diving terms can be confusing until you know | | | | you are diving in cold waters (around 5 degree celcius |
| what they mean - unbalanced diving regulators | | | | or lower) then you really need to choose a good cold |
| perform worse as the scuba diving tank empties, and | | | | water regulator. |
| should be avoided in all but the most basic diving. | | | | Piston vs Diaphragm Diving Regulators |
| A balanced diving regulator will deliver the same | | | | A piston based regulator is very simple, and provide |
| amount of air at all pressures and depths - balanced | | | | better performance at depth. Piston diving regulators |
| diving regulators are usually mid-range and are most | | | | cannot be overbalanced. Diaphragm diving regulators |
| common. | | | | are more complex, but are less likely to have |
| An overbalanced diving regulator is one which makes | | | | mechanical problems as the internal parts aren't |
| breathing easier as you go deeper - these are usually | | | | exposed to the water, which can be the case with |
| towards the top of the range. | | | | piston based regulators. |
| Yoke/A-Clamp vs DIN | | | | When buying a new diving regulator, don't worry |
| These are the two different types of fitting for | | | | about it - both provide perfectly fine performance |
| attaching your scuba diving regulator to your tank. | | | | for almost all recreational scuba diving. |
| Your decision will probably be based on where you | | | | Nitrox Ready Regulators |
| are diving - in the UK the A-Clamp fitting is most | | | | Most scuba diving regulators are suitable for up to |
| popular, whereas abroad the DIN fitting is more | | | | 40% nitrox without any modification. If you require a |
| prevalant. | | | | higher o2 content then you need to go for a nitrox |
| Technically speaking, the DIN fitting is better as you | | | | diving regulator - these are usually green to distinguish |
| will need this if you want to use a 300bar tank - | | | | them and have been properly cleaned. One other |
| A-Clamp is only good for 232bar, although this is by | | | | consideration is that you can't use Nitrox with |
| far the most common. | | | | titanium diving regulators. |
| If you buy an A-Clamp you can buy a DIN kit | | | | Real World Examples - Scubapro First Stages |
| (around £25-35) to convert it though, and | | | | Scubapro MK25 - A great first stage, this is a piston |
| there are also A-Clamp adapters for DIN regs for a | | | | based, overbalanced scuba diving regulator with |
| similar price. | | | | Scubapro's patented TIS system making it suitable |
| Coldwater safe diving regulators | | | | for cold water. |
| When diving in the UK, especially at inland dive sites | | | | Scubapro MK11 - A good mid-range reg, this one is an |
| you need a regulator that can still perform. The | | | | overbalanced diaphragm model, also with the TIS for |
| problem is that when the air goes from high pressure | | | | cold water diving. |
| in your dive tank to low pressure you need to | | | | Scubapro MK2 - A very simple first stage, it is piston |
| breathe, it cools a lot - sometimes leading to | | | | based and very compact. It comes with the TIS for |
| freeflow when in very cold water. | | | | cold water diving, but is unbalanced so only really |
| There are two main ways the diving regulator | | | | suitable for first time or very occasional divers as a |
| companies have come up with - one is to seal the | | | | primary regulator. This is a very popular first stage |
| first stage completely, which some manufacturers do | | | | for pony bottles because it is cheap, and you don't |
| (Apeks for example) while others have more | | | | need a balanced reg for a pony bottle. |
| sophisticated systems - Scubapro's TIS (Thermal | | | | |