| > | | | | From diving around the Mergui Archipelago as far as |
| Wherever you go you will be spending large sums of | | | | Black Rock in the 2007-2008 season I would advise |
| money getting there, and does a few hours spent | | | | divers to go. There are several sites that are world |
| searching for information make sense? Of course. So | | | | class, and I would include Black Rock, Western |
| here is my opinion of scuba diving in Burma, accurate | | | | Rocky, and Shark Cave in this category. Vast |
| and correct as of the 30 August 2008. | | | | amounts of soft corals, hard corals, sea fans and the |
| Burma has been in the news recently for all the | | | | like are everywhere, and for the uninitiated the sites |
| wrong reasons, with the sights of violent put-downs | | | | do not bear the hallmarks of dynamite damage. Also, |
| of peaceful protest and victims of Cyclone Naga | | | | there are no obvious signs of recent fishing damage |
| being refused help by their own government placed | | | | such as caught nets or lines. This does not mean the |
| highly on news channels world wide. For this reason, | | | | sites are not fished, in fact fish numbers grew |
| scuba diving travel to the country is not exactly at | | | | noticeably through the season so (as seems to be |
| the top of most divers’ agendas. But should it | | | | the case in the whole of South East Asia) if there |
| be? | | | | are no dive boats, the fishermen probably take |
| For a moment let us forget the internal troubles of | | | | advantage. Dive sites around North Twin are also |
| the country and concentrate on the diving. Put | | | | spectacular, with plenty of life everywhere. |
| simply, there seem to be only two opinions on the | | | | Ok, some sites are not to everyone’s taste, |
| diving in Burma
| | | | with macro predominating on some sites, on the inner |
| 1 : The sites are destroyed
used to be | | | | islands especially, and harsh currents around full and |
| beautiful
dynamite
no sharks like the books say | | | | half moon making the task of finding that macro |
| there should be
| | | | very difficult. But what you will get on almost all dive |
| 2 : Beautiful reefs
untouched
no other dive | | | | sites, is the place to yourself. Only one dive was |
| boats
like Thailand used to be
| | | | shared with another boat this season and this is an |
| So who is right? Well, in a way both parties make | | | | almost alien concept on liveaboard boats leaving from |
| valid and true points, but it can’t be summed | | | | Phuket. Almost every trip there will be a chance to |
| up in a few short sentences. Pick up any guide book | | | | dive an unexplored dive site, and how often do you |
| on scuba diving that includes Burma and yes, sharks | | | | genuinely get to do that? |
| and rays form a large part of the content, both | | | | And what about the sharks? Are they there? Well, |
| pictures and text. Are the books correct? I think in all | | | | rumour has it that the Burma Banks are all but empty |
| honesty, no, they’re wrong, but in fairness all | | | | now, and having never been out there I can’t |
| these books were written by early pioneers of | | | | really comment. But as far as Mergui goes the |
| Burma scuba diving and they were correct at the | | | | answer is yes and no. No, they are not everywhere |
| time. Yes, the editions are updated, new information | | | | and you shouldn’t go to Burma if that’s |
| is added, but do the authors re-visit all the places in | | | | what you want. But they are there, in fact over only |
| their books to do this? Very rarely. So in reality, | | | | 16 days diving between October and May last season |
| books that are now above 1st edition and are more | | | | there were White Tip Reef Sharks, Grey Reef |
| than 1 year from their original print date can be | | | | Sharks, a Nurse Shark, Leopard Sharks and two |
| considered out of date and are more than likely to | | | | Whale Sharks on the dives. Not a bad hit rate when |
| include plenty of hearsay’ about many | | | | you consider there were also Eagle Rays, Blotched |
| things. And if nothing new is heard then the | | | | Fantail Rays, and Manta Rays there as well. All this |
| information will remain the same. | | | | coupled together with the Sea Horses, Pipe Fish |
| So if you’re looking at a Burma liveaboard | | | | (Robust, Ornate Ghost, White Bend Stick among |
| cruise then surely asking the agent will give you the | | | | several others), Nudibranchs, Spanish Dancer, |
| correct information? Well, not always the case, | | | | Lobsters, and Napoleons and Burma starts to sound |
| especially where Burma is concerned. Most of the | | | | very attractive doesn’t it? |
| boats heading into the Mergui Archipelago do so from | | | | Scuba diving in Burma is definitely worth it. Forget |
| Phuket, and Phuket is very agent based’. | | | | stories about being in the water as dynamiting is |
| Which means unless you are booking direct with the | | | | happening, in the last few years I know of nobody |
| operator, then the person you are dealing with is | | | | this has happened to. In fact from my time in Burma |
| unlikely to have dived in Burma recently, if at all. So | | | | last season only three fishing boats were even seen |
| what to do? For me, getting advice on diving | | | | from our boat, the fuel squeeze is hitting everyone! |
| destinations is best done by searching Google for | | | | And as for the moralities of visiting Burma? This is |
| articles, forums and websites or blogs that have | | | | down to you and your personal views, so go back to |
| current, up to date information. After all, wherever | | | | Google and search for more articles. But for me, the |
| you go you will be spending large sums of money | | | | Burmese are a great people, and the more people I |
| getting there, and does a few hours spent searching | | | | can show this to, the more people are there to voice |
| for information make sense? Of course. So here is | | | | an opinion to others and to help when the Burmese |
| my opinion of Burma, accurate and correct as of the | | | | people need defending from their rulers the most. |
| 30 August 2008. | | | | |